Allen Katz is one of the nation’s leading experts on distilled spirits and cocktails and a partner at New York Distilling Co (NYDC). In 2023, August Point worked with NYDC to open their new distillery and tasting room in Bushwick, Brooklyn.
In 2017 you were part of the group of New York State distillers who created the “Empire Rye” designation. What motivated that effort and what are you aiming to achieve with it?
Rye whiskey has a great American story we’re interested in promoting, and there's a significant audience that's less familiar with it. Growing rye grain in New York, particularly northern New York, is of compelling interest because of the wonderful climate and soil composition, and it’s an epicenter for cocktail culture. We're interested in further regionalizing rye in its unique set of qualities to New York State and New York City.
You’re fond of saying that NYDC’s spirits are “purposefully different.” How does that come through in the bottle?
We are purposely different in our creativity, in our outlook, in the grains that we use, but not so esoteric. This Horton variety is unlike any rye we have ever worked with. It's a very different profile that gives flavors trending toward tropical notes—a different type of caramelized sugar than most would be used to in American rye or bourbon. Further tropical notes take the course of things like candied mango, or acidic qualities of fresh pineapple, even a bit of papaya.
Your latest product, Jaywalk Heirloom Rye, uses a rye varietal that hasn’t been commercially grown since the 19th century. How did you land on using this grain?
We were looking for something that had origins in New York State by historic record. We worked in collaboration with our farmer and the College of Agriculture at Cornell University. Their effort pointed toward the discovery. Jaywalk features a unique heirloom variety of rye with origins dating back to 17th century Rye, a New York City suburb.
What qualities do you look for in a good rye whiskey?
It's one word. Flavor. Our passion for food, for rye whiskey, for beer, for cider, for wine, for a hamburger—is [about] flavor. Why else exist?
What advice do you have for someone considering opening a distillery, whether in NYC or elsewhere?
You’ve gotta have some good guts, patience, and funding. Talk to other distillers. It's a very sharing community. And it's a unique business that has its own set of rules and regulations from a production and safety standpoint. You've got to be engaged and willing to derive pleasure from learning, committed to enjoying the process.
